June 30th - July 1st, 2001
| We waited until late June to attempt a neat looking couloir on "Corner Peak" (Point 12,709) and the connecting ridge that led to Mount Powell's saddle (aka "Cataract Points") so that Dan could come along. Dan, Ken, and I left Denver around 1pm and took a leisurly approach to Piney Lake near Vail. When we arrived at Piney Lake Ranch, we discovered that they were now charging $5 to enter! Fortunately, it didn't seem to be too strictly enforced because the guy attending the gate said we could just hike around on a new trail that paralleled the ranch and we were welcome to come in the other direction. So, we packed up, put on our sunscreen, threw on our packs and headed out. |
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This was maybe the 6th or 7th time I've made the hike along the flat slopes along Piney River. I enjoy it every time I go.
It was 53 weeks ago that Ken and I were here attempting Peak "C" and Mount Powell. I don't know if it was the extra week, but there seemed to be less snow on the mountains this year. We definitely had more snow this year but perhaps this June was extra hot and melted out the snow a lot faster. I have pictures from late July of 1997 where there was even more snow than there was this year, three weeks earlier. Anyway, we took a break at the falls where we climbed down to the base and took some pictures. Dan was duely impressed with the waterfall. This is one of the best falls that I've seen in the state. We headed down to the base of the main section of falls for pictures (left). The cataracts continue on steeply down the rocks past this, but this is the tallest section. These two falls you see in this picture probably total about 75 feet. |
| After branching off of the main trail about 5 minutes past the falls, we began the steep ascent up to the spot that I had picked out on the map - the confluence of the main creek coming off of the Mount Powell/Peak "C" basin and the smaller perennial stream coming off of Corner Peak. After plowing through the classic dense foliage and filthy black mud, we arrived at the spot which featured a perfect campsite as well. Dan and I scouted around a little more up on the slopes towards Corner Peak perhaps trying to find a more private campsite since this one was almost right on the trail. We found some nice spots but they were so far from a water source that they actually would have been more of a pain, although one had quite a spectacular view (below). |
Thick forest and an obscured trail to Peak "C"/Mount Powell basin with Mount Powell in the far background |
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View west from a spectacular campsite |
After setting up camp, building a small fire, and eating some chow, I decided to use the remaining light to scout the route, which is totally undocumented. I went up to the confluence and crossed to the right (south) side. Actually we were camped maybe 100 yards below the confluence. I climbed up about 100 feet to a small saddle to find another charming little basin to camp in. I then turned westward and climbed up 3rd class ledges about 200 more feet to an aerie with a commanding view of the basin. From there, I took several nice sunset shots, but more importantly I was able to spy most of the route on Corner Peak. To my dismay, I noticed the couloir was almost entirely melted out. No precipitation and a hot June was obviously the culprit. The couloir looked very steep and intimidating from here so I was a little relieved that it was indeed melted out. I went back to report the bad news to the other guys. We were all bummed about the news and the two of them didn't really want to attempt Corner Peak but I did. They had a good point by saying that we ought to wait and try the couloir next year when it was in better shape as opposed to "forcing" a climb of the ridge. I was a little more bummed but understood. Dan was all fired up about climbing Peak "C", which still seemed to be in good shape since it's climbing couloirs faced north and west. So, Ken decided that he'd lead Dan up Peak "C" and I decided to explore the basin and take pictures and maybe try traversing the ridge backwards. |
| Ken and Dan were planning on getting up at 5am. Of course, the alarm didn't go off and we all slept until 6:30.
We got ready really quickly though and headed out.
My first plan was to climb up the the small notch above Kneeknocker Pass on the route to Mount Powell and take pictures of the stunning view of Peak "C" from there. Last year, my lens was broken and my Peak "C" pics didn't come out very well. At the base of the first couloir we split up. I made quick progress up Mount Powell and was able to take some neat shots of Dan and Ken climbing the first couloir (below). At the notch on Mount Powell's south ridge, I took several pictures of Peak "C" with different settings to ensure that I'd have a good picture, then headed back down. |
Corner Peak with it's melted out couloir
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The first couloir on Peak "C". Ken and Dan are about 2/3rd the way up. Click here for a closeup. |
Back near the base of the basin, I started heading west towards the western Saddle of Mount Powell where I would have a good view of the upper Cataract Creek Basin, which is the basin used to climb Eagle's Nest. From the saddle, I started to climb the Cataract Points. The first one wasn't very big but was pretty tough - difficult 3rd class. The next one was a very high point, the one along the ridge east past "Cataract Sentinel", Point 12,626. This Cataract Point was way too difficult for me to attempt alone and as the terrain got really tough (difficult 4th class), I backed down and headed back to camp. Along the way I took several stunning shots of Peak "C" and Ripsaw Ridge. I figured I'd head back to camp and meet Ken and Dan there. I arrived at 11 am convinced that they would be back at camp. The weren't. So, in the meantime, I had a little food, laid out in the sun, then refreshed myself with some creek water. When they weren't back by noon, I started to think that something was wrong so I decided I would climb up on the slopes of "Cataract Sentinel" (Point 12,626) so I could have a commanding view of the basin. I left my pack at camp, drank a lot of water, then strapped on my camera and fanny pack. I zoomed up the peak. About halfway up, I saw Ken glissading down the 1st couloir and then I saw Dan slowly backing down. They were OK so I decided I would at least back this peak so I continued up. I blew my whistle at them but they didn't hear me. |
| This peak is a joy to climb and I highly recommend it. The lower ramparts consist of grassy ledges that are solid and a pleasure to hike up. The upper part of the climb is very craggy and a great 3rd class scramble. I'd recommend following my route: From the confluence of the two creeks (the one coming from Powell, and the smaller one coming off of the Corner Peak basin) head up the steep grassy slopes on the left side of the creek. Cross the creek and move onto the lower slopes of Cataract Sentinel when it becomes easy. Traverse past some smooth rock slabs then start up the grassy slopes. Soon, I realized I was in a grassy gully that's easy to follow. If you're consistently follow the easiest, grassiest section, you'll eventually pop out on top of a rocky ridge. I started climbing the rocky ridge which was an awesome 3rd class scramble. From here, the views are stunning. I still couldn't see Corner Peak from here but I followed the ridge up to a false summit and then could see it. However, this being a false summit, the ridge hooked to the right and continued up. A very steep tower appeared to be the top. I continued on and reached to top of the tower and realized that this was another false summit. I could see the real summit beyond this point about a hundred yards. There appeared to be a cairn! After this final scramble I found myself on the top. A bout one hour and 1800 feet later, I was on top! There was even a summit register! Of course, only a handful of people had signed it, a few of which I recognized as guidebook authors and others who have climbed all of the 13ers! In other words, some major hikers and climbers! |
Looking back on the ridge to "Cataract Sentinel" with Upper Piney Valley in the background |
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Corner Peak from the top of Cataract Sentinel. The couloir we were to climb is in the center. |
I took a picture of Peak "C"
from the top...a neat angle to view the peak. After sitting around
for about 10 minutes, I headed down.
I headed down a different route. I saw a gully that looked like it went straight down to the Peak "C"/Mount Powell basin. I figured that if headed down to the basin that would be about 300 feet of trail that I could use to descend. This route was further east than my ascent route and was a little trickier. For one thing, the gully was a bit looser as there was a good bit of scree. Also, near the bottom, I had to wander of mini maze of cliffs but was able to pick a safe route to the base. I hooked back up with the creek and trail and followed my way back to camp where Dan and Ken were waiting. It all worked out in the end. We all enjoyed our respective climbs. The hike out was rather grueling. We were all spent by the time we arrived back at Dan's truck at Piney River Ranch. |
